Journal – Insights on Contemporary Jewellery by Nicole van der Wolf

Argentium silver plays an important role in my work as a goldsmith. It allows me to approach jewellery in a more sculptural and experimental way, particularly in pieces that involve movement and structure. What Is Argentium Silver? Argentium silver is a modern silver alloy developed as an alternative to traditional sterling silver. Like sterling silver, it contains a high proportion of pure silver, but with one key difference: a small amount of germanium is added to the alloy. This changes the behaviour of the metal in subtle but important ways. Argentium vs Sterling Silver Both alloys are suitable for fine...

How Kinetic Jewellery Works: Movement in Contemporary Jewellery What Is Kinetic Jewellery? Kinetic jewellery incorporates movement as part of its design. Unlike static pieces, these works change position or respond to motion when worn. This movement can be subtle: rotating elements, sliding stones, or articulated links that shift with the body. The result is jewellery that invites interaction and reveals new details as it moves. For many contemporary jewellery artists, movement adds a dimension to the relationship between jewellery and its wearer.  A Brief History of Movement in Jewellery Movement has appeared in jewellery for centuries. Hinged pendants, articulated necklaces,...

Why I Work With Argentium Silver What Is Argentium Silver? Argentium silver is a modern silver alloy developed as an alternative to traditional sterling silver. It contains a small addition of germanium, which improves durability and resistance to tarnish. This makes it particularly appealing for contemporary jewellery makers who want to combine traditional materials with modern design. Argentium vs Sterling Silver Traditional sterling silver contains copper, which can lead to quicker tarnishing. Argentium silver behaves differently. The germanium content forms a protective layer on the surface, slowing the tarnishing process and making the metal easier to maintain. For wearers, this...

Jewellery Between Art and Adornment Jewellery as Sculpture Jewellery occupies a fascinating position between art and design. Unlike sculpture in a gallery, jewellery is worn on the body. It moves through daily life, interacting with the wearer and the world around it. For many contemporary jewellers, this dual identity is central to the practice. The Relationship Between Jewellery and the Body Because jewellery is worn, it is always experienced in motion. A necklace shifts as the wearer moves. Earrings catch light as the head turns. Rings interact with gestures and touch. These interactions transform jewellery into something more than an...

Designing Jewellery Around Unusual Gemstones Starting With the Stone Many jewellery designs begin with a sketch. In some of my work, however, the process begins with the gemstone itself. Certain stones have such distinctive shapes or textures that they naturally suggest a particular setting or form. Designing around these stones means allowing the material to guide the composition. Fantasy-Cut Gemstones One example is the use of fantasy-cut gemstones. These stones are cut with intricate facets, grooves, or sculptural surfaces that reflect light in unexpected ways. Because they are often produced by specialist cutters, they can be difficult to find in...