Designing Jewellery Around Unusual Gemstones

Starting With the Stone

Many jewellery designs begin with a sketch. In some of my work, however, the process begins with the gemstone itself. Certain stones have such distinctive shapes or textures that they naturally suggest a particular setting or form. Designing around these stones means allowing the material to guide the composition.

Fantasy-Cut Gemstones

One example is the use of fantasy-cut gemstones. These stones are cut with intricate facets, grooves, or sculptural surfaces that reflect light in unexpected ways. Because they are often produced by specialist cutters, they can be difficult to find in Europe. Their complexity encourages jewellery designs that highlight the stone rather than dominate it.

Natural Textures and Druse

Another material that inspires design is onyx druse, where tiny natural crystals form on the surface of the stone. In my Midnight Snow pieces, these surfaces evoke sparkling snow under moonlight. The surrounding gold structures frame the stone much like a landscape, allowing the natural texture to remain the focus.

Designing Around Unique Gems

Working with unusual gemstones requires flexibility. Because many stones are unique, each piece must adapt to the characteristics of the material. This process often results in one-of-a-kind pieces where the design evolves directly from the stone.

Explore Jewellery Featuring Unique Gemstones

•  Midnight Snow Collection
•  Summer Strand Collection

Learn more about the ideas behind my work in the Artist Statement