Materials & Techniques

The jewellery created by Nicole van der Wolf combines sculptural design with traditional goldsmithing techniques. Each piece is handmade in her Dublin studio using carefully selected metals and gemstones.

Nicole is particularly interested in how materials behave — how silver can be fused or oxidised, how gemstones interact with light, and how movement can be introduced into jewellery through mechanical construction. These technical explorations are an essential part of the creative process and help shape the distinctive character of her work.

Argentium Silver

Argentium silver is a modern silver alloy developed to improve upon traditional sterling silver. It contains a small amount of germanium, which gives the metal greater resistance to tarnish and improves its durability.

For Nicole, Argentium silver offers an additional advantage: it can be fused rather than soldered. This allows individual elements such as chain links to be joined seamlessly, producing stronger connections and a cleaner finish.

The metal also responds beautifully to oxidisation, creating rich dark surfaces that highlight the sculptural forms of the jewellery.

Oxidised Silver

Oxidising silver is a process that deliberately darkens the surface of the metal to create contrast and depth. By applying controlled oxidation, Nicole is able to emphasise texture and form within her designs.

The resulting darkened surfaces often evoke industrial materials such as weathered steel or maritime equipment — a visual language that appears in several collections, particularly ShipShape.

Over time the oxidised finish may gradually evolve with wear, giving each piece a unique character that reflects the life of its wearer.

Riveting

Riveting is a mechanical joining technique used in both engineering and traditional jewellery making. Small metal rivets are used to connect elements without soldering them together.

Nicole uses riveting in several designs, particularly in pieces that incorporate kinetic or movable elements. The technique allows components to remain structurally secure while still permitting movement.

Beyond its functional role, riveting also references industrial construction methods used in shipbuilding and other maritime structures.

Kinetic Jewellery

Kinetic jewellery incorporates movement as part of its design. Rather than remaining static, certain elements respond to the motion of the wearer.

Nicole explores this idea in the ShipShape Kinetic series, where gemstones slide within specially constructed settings. The movement echoes the shifting motion of cargo at sea and introduces a tactile dimension to the jewellery.

The gentle sound and motion created by these pieces can be surprisingly calming, turning the jewellery into an object that invites interaction as well as visual appreciation.

Gemstone Selection

Gemstones are chosen not only for their colour but also for their interaction with light and movement. Nicole often works with stones whose tones evoke natural environments — ocean greens, deep blues, soft pastels, and sparkling whites.

Many pieces incorporate stones that provide contrast against oxidised silver or polished gold, allowing the gems to become focal points within the sculptural compositions.

Because natural gemstones vary slightly in colour and character, each piece of jewellery possesses its own individuality.

Hand Fabrication

All jewellery by Nicole van der Wolf is handmade in small studio batches or as individual pieces. Techniques such as forging, forming, riveting, and hand-finishing allow each design to retain a sense of craftsmanship and tactile presence.

This approach stands in contrast to mass-produced jewellery and ensures that every piece carries the subtle marks of the making process — small variations that reflect the hand of the maker. 

Explore Further

Discover the ShipShape collection →
Learn more about Jewellery inspired by water →  
Read the Artist Statement → 
Explore the Journal →